Marché de Noel – Christmas market in Grenoble

We often debate about the ‘quality of life’ in France. When the works on the tram extension and lunch time closing of shops strain our patience, we struggle to understand what is so great about life in France. Then the Christmas markets appear with twinkling lights and wooden huts bursting with artisanal goods and we think ahhh this is ‘it’. 

‘It’ can be various things – sipping champagne and letting juicy plump Normandy oysters slide down your throat, tasting ‘patate au four’ with raclette’, jacket potatoes smothered with melted raclette cheese, a special alpine favourite washed down with ‘vin chaud’ a kind of mulled wine, or a pyramid of chocolates, handmade and heavenly, each decorated so artistically it is almost a shame to devour them. 

Other food stalls sell ‘tartiflette’ a potato and bacon dish with cheese baked in a large paella-type dish. In another large wok, I find diot sausages simmering in wine and onions.

A shop naturally dedicated to selling large discs of cheese is popular amongst the visitors.

The sweet shops sell  hot ‘churros’ long doughnuts rolled in cinnamon and sugar, and Belgian waffles covered in a topping of your choice, Nutella, Chantilly cream or any other cholesterol rich food. Why the French are so healthy generally, given their cuisine is rich in cheese, wine and cream, we fail to understand. The secret is ‘control’. The ladies especially know when to say ‘non merci’ and stop after a sensible glass or two of wine and a small portion of dessert. They are also keen on exercise (at least the people who live in Grenoble), running up and down mountains and skiing to name but a few activities.

The craft stalls are a joy to behold. Handmade old fashioned toys, lamps and shawls the list goes on and on. It is not cheap but you pay for the skill and labour. It is a pleasant change from buying things made anonymously in factories in foreign land. Here you can speak to the artist himself and praise his handiwork.

I asked permission to take pictures of the stalls and the ‘marchands’ (merchants) as there are strict laws regarding ‘droit à l’image’, a person’s right not to have their image published. In the world of social media where people snap pictures of others without giving this right any particular thought I think it is quite wise. I extend sincere apologies to those passerbys I have accidentally "shot".

The market runs from end of November to 24 December. Place Victor Hugo will soon be bare and the party will move indoors. On Christmas Eve the French lay down a feast consisting of oysters, langoustines, foie gras (duck liver pâté) and thirteen desserts. A cabbage soup diet is highly recommended in the New Year.